Friday, February 3, 2012

Menswear Fall 2012
By Bacca da Silva
KEY TRENDS: Texture, leather, color block, hats, mixed-fabrics, fur and shearling details
MINOR TRENDS: Velvet, prints and tie- dye, high heel, cropped pants, hats
Key words – fabric technology and craftsmanship
On January 11th menswear fashion designers started showing fall 2012 collection in Milan, followed by Paris, London and NY. Although sparsely, we’ve seen some similar recurring trends in the past seasons in some collections such as tie-dye for Prada and cotton prints for Dries Van Noten. Currently, These trends are still influencing designers and pretty much in all collections right now. However, there is a stronger attraction towards mixed-textures and new fabric technology. The trend is strong in several menswear collections and it is shown in jackets, pants, shirts, t-shirts, scarves, shoes and trench coats. Sometimes is a two-color jackets that shows a leather details in the collar or shoulder; Sometimes the outfit is a tie-dye wool suit with a shearling collars or woven wool/silk or leather contrast lapel. Some fabrics are reengineered in order to interweave wool and leather or wool and silk. The technology for these fabrics is amazing. Since menswear is still a conservative field compared to women’s wear, these new fabrics gives new possibilities to menswear designers to create more interesting clothes and accessories. Another growing trend is the return of the hats. We’ve seen the fedora hat with small and sometimes larger brims in: Moschino, Iceberg, John Richmond, Etro and Vivienne Westwood. The Beretta was also another hat seen in Burberry, Armani and John Richmond. Last season we saw “the cowboy hat” in Lanvin men’s wear show. Lucas Ossendrijver, Lanvin menswear creative directors, preferred Boss of the Plains hat which has a wider brim as opposed to the fedora. Here, I chose the pieces that represent the season’s main trends. Pay close attention to the texture and the symbiosis of different fabrics and textures. All pics Fall 2012 consecutively: Versace,Ann Demeulemeester, Bacca da Silva, Bottega Veneta and Dolce and Gabanna .